Trip report for Open Charity Challenge to Everest Base Camp (Nepal) led by Alan Ward in November/ December 2011

Photo: TMC group at Everest Base Camp in December 2011

On November 29^th our Open Charity Challenge group trekking to Everest Base Camp arrived to Kathmandu. Alan Ward was the western leader for this team of fifteen which also included four visually impaired (“VI”) people with one person having no sight.

One of the VIs, David, had already joined two of our treks both led by Alan, in 2007 he trekked to Upper Mustang in Nepal and in 2010 attempted to climb Stok Kangri in Ladakh. David got in touch with us at end of last year with the idea of planning a trek to Everest Base Camp to coincide with his 60^th birthday. Of course we were delighted to be able to help him and he also recruited several friends from his walking group Milton Mountaineers and Vitalise Holidays.

In September Alan organised a training weekend for this group in Brecons, this worked well so that the team could get to know each other. From feedback received I gather everyone found Alan’s various presentations and discussions over the course of the weekend very helpful and aided their preparations for the trek to Everest Base Camp.

Based on our experience with organising David’s previous treks in the Himalayas we realised that each VI would require a sighted helper from UK as well as one Sherpa guide to escort them at all times along the trail. After discussing this set-up on their return I understand worked well with Sherpa guides taking the lead during the day due to their knowledge of the route while also being supported by UK helpers. Then on arrival to lodge in the afternoon UK helper would take over showing VIs around the lodge such as dining room, bedroom and washing facilities.

I enjoyed meeting this group on their return to Kathmandu and hearing about how the trek went for them. They experienced good weather with sun every day and also everyone acclimatised well to the altitude (as a result of our tried and tested 14 day trek itinerary!). The feedback I received was they enjoyed staying at the lodges we had carefully selected for them and I gather Zamling in Namche and Mother Earth were their favourites.

Great news that all VIs and helpers plus the rest of the group (apart from one) made it all the way to Everest Base Camp and/ or Kalapatar. This is a fantastic achievement for everyone in the group and is truly inspirational. When they got back in Kathmandu there was a lot of interest by Nepalese media and VIs had interviews with Kantipur TV,several radio stations and also articles/ photos in several newspapers including Republica (see photo below).

Photo: VIs in Kathmandu published in Republica

This is a photo of David, Jimmy, Leigh and Terry in Kathmandu a few days ago after successfully completing Everest Base Camp trek in Nepal, it is a really special achievement for them as they are all visually impaired with one person having no sight. I would like thank Alan Ward their western leader and UK helpers (Diana, Rob, Meg and Emma) as well as the rest of the group who supported VIs throughout their trek. A huge thanks to our Nepalese sirdar, Buddhi Rai, plus the Sherpas (Tenzing, Purna, Mangal, Prem, Kulungman and Uttar) as well as the porters who did a superb job making it possible for everyone to achieve their objective of walking to Everest Base Camp.

Thanks also to Rohan Designs Limited who kindly donated over 20kg of clothing for KEEP’s porters lending bank, Alan brought this gear out with him and shortly after arriving to Nepal visited their office in Kathmandu to hand these items over to them.

The Mountain Company is organising two Open Charity Challenge treks in Nepal for 2012, we have a western led Everest Base Camp group in November and Alan is coming back again to lead our Annapurna Base Camp trek also in November. Please get in touch with us soon if you would like to join one of these groups.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Trip Report for Stok Kangri expedition led by Alan Ward in July 2010

Photo: view from summit of Stok Kangri

This year Alan Ward led The Mountain Company’s expedition to Stok Kangri (6,123m) in Ladakh northern India, he was helped by our Ladakhi guide Angchok and also our Nepalese climbing guide Shera. Overall the expedition went well with two members of the group summiting and the rest successfully reaching high up on the mountain.

After flying to Leh at 3,505m the team spent three days acclimatising to this high altitude while spending time to explore Leh and the surrounding area. On their second day they visited Leh Palace then climbed to the hilltop gompa and the ruined fort. Next day the team took jeeps to Khardung La, at 5,359m this pass is known as the highest motorable road in the world. Not only is the view impressive but driving up here is helpful for acclimatisation before starting the trek.

Our Stok Kangri itinerary starts from the village of Chilling located on the Zanskar river before entering the Markha Valley, then after crossing Ganda La at 4,983m we make the approach Stok Kangri Base Camp.

On arrival to Base Camp, Alan was informed by the Indian Mountaineering Federation (IMF) representative that it was no longer possible to use the High Camp on the mountain. The reason given was that villagers from Stok were unhappy with the rubbish left at this camp and were worried about pollution of their water supply. While I respect their view on this matter the issue is without using High Camp makes climbing Stok Kangri far more difficult and risky in terms of lack of acclimatisation and forcing a very long summit day. Hopefully in the future a solution will be found to satisfy everyone involved, perhaps by more stringent monitoring of expeditions on the mountain?

Luckily after much discussion IMF granted our group approval to use High Camp due to the fact we had a blind climber in our group however as it turned out the pack animals were unable to proceed to the “higher” High Camp due to snow on the trail.

The team set off for the summit at 4am, on leaving camp they headed up to the glacier which was very wet and slushy underfoot. After making progress climbing the mountain three of the group decided to turn back then two carried on with Shera to the summit. Alan thought that this year the conditions were much more challenging compared to his last visit to Stok Kangri. The view of our summiteers Ian and Paul was that Stok Kangri was more difficult than their previous trips to Mera Peak and Aconcagua.

Congratulations to the whole team it was a great effort given the conditions, I think everyone succeeded in making their own personal altitude records on this mountain.

The Mountain Company is organising an expedition to Stok Kangri in July 2011, please get in touch with us if you would like to join this group.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Trip report for Upper Mustang trek led by Alan Ward in September '08

Photo: Upper Mustang

In September '08 Alan Ward led a group for The Mountain Company to Upper Mustang in Nepal. I have copied Alan's description of this fascinating region below:

"The Kingdom of Mustang is located at the northern end of the Kali Ghandaki Valley, the world’s deepest gorge which, at it’s southern end lies between the spectacular peaks of the Niligiri Range (7,055m – 7,134m) and Dhaulagiri (8,167m). At an average altitude of 4,000m the Kingdom is geologically and culturally part of the Tibetan Plateau and has an arid and dry landscape with colourful rock formations containing thousands of long abandoned cave dwellings. Trekking groups were first allowed into this restricted area in 1992 with the government charging for special area permits. In recent years, only about 1,000 visitors reach Lo Manthang, the capital and this has resulted in the Tibetan culture being largely undisturbed. The trekking routes were used by salt caravans crossing from Tibet into Nepal and settlements are few and far between. Mustang became an independent kingdom in 1380 and the current royal family can trace their lineage back to this date. During the 1960’s, the Tibetan Khampa guerillas, trained and funded by the CIA, used Mustang as their stronghold against the Chinese." 

The highlight of the trek is visiting Lo Manthang, the capital of Upper Mustang, as described below by Alan: "Everyone was looking forward to reaching Lo Manthang, capital of Mustang, the last forbidden kingdom. Crossing a level plain to the last climb up to the Lho La (3,950m) was a relief to all as we finally saw Lo Manthang beyond the cairn and prayer flags at the pass. Before long we were enjoying lunch at the Hotel Mystique, our lodge and camp site for two nights. Our camp site was just in front of the lodge and looked eastwards towards the colourful Thakla Danda and Rijopuwa Danda mountain ranges. Our tour didn't take too long as Lo Manthang isn't a large settlement but we found two gompas and the teaching school interesting. During the afternoon we were granted a royal audience with the King of Mustang. Being in Lo Manthnag was like going back in time. The only water supply seemed to be in the main square where women were washing clothese and men were filling water containers before disappearing down narrow alleyways to houses beyond the square. The afternoon was spent at leisure with some of the group relaxing in camp whilst others continued wandering around the walled city." 

The Mountain Company is planning on organising another Upper Mustang trek in September '09, please get in touch if you are interested in joining the group. For more information please take a look at the Upper Mustang webpage