Trip report for Dhaulagiri Circuit (Nepal) led by Jill Lawson in April 2012

Our Dhaulagiri Circuit in April/May 2012 was the sixth time The Mountain Company has organised this trek.  Our western leader for our Spring 2012 trek was Jill Lawson for more information on her background and experience. Jill was working with our Nepalese sirdar Jire Rai who has done this trek fives times with our groups and also Sherpa guides Sonam and Lanka. The cook was Saila Rai who always does a fantastic job and certainly his food was appreciated and enjoyed by this group- see their testimonials at bottom of this Trip Report.

It was great to see that over half of this group were repeat trekkers with us with some having already walked to Everest Base Camp and for Paul it was his fourth trek having previously done K2 Base Camp (Pakistan) in July 2007, Manaslu Circuit in April 2008 and Stok Kangri (August 2010). We really appreciate it when people show their support and come back for more than trip with The Mountain Company, it shows we are doing something right!

Chonbarden Gorge

This group arrived to Kathmandu on April 22^nd, and met up with Jill at Hotel Tibet in the afternoon for a detailed briefing on the trek and kit check. We carefully selected the date of the trek for Spring season as by end of April and into May the temperatures tend to be warmer and usually there is less snow on French and Dhampus passes so should increase the chances of successfully crossing over to Jomsom in the Kali Gandaki valley. However this Spring the conditions experienced by this group were rather different to normal with far more precipitation in the afternoons and evenings plus a lower snowline down to Italian Base camp. 

On Day 10 of the itinerary when the group was meant to walk up Chonbarden gorge to Glacier Camp there was quite a lot of overnight snow so wisely Jill and Jire made a good call to hold for a day to let the snow melt in order to minimise the risk of rockfall in the gorge. This worked well and everyone safely made it to Glacier camp and for the rest of the trek weather was more stable with sunny weather. In fact this often happens on Dhaulagiri Circuit as main Base Camp and Hidden Valley are protected to some degree by rain shadow effect of Dhaulagiri. 

The most challenging day of Dhaulagiri Circuit trek is crossing Dhampus Pass over to Yak Kharka camp (or Alu Bari camp lower down). The group experienced deep snow on the traverse from summit of Dhampus pass to the descent down to camp however there was a trail blazed by the porters for everyone to follow. On arriving to Jomsom at the end of the trek I gather there was a good party where the group and crew enjoyed drinking some of the local apple brandy together. Later on in the evening the group generously handed out tips to the Nepalese crew as a thank you for all of their hard work during the trek.

Descending French Pass into Hidden Valley

Traverse after Dhampus Pass

I would like to thank Jill very much for all of her help leading this trek, the feedback from the group on her leadership and organisation skills has been excellent- please some of their testimonials copied below. I would also like to thank Tom, Jill’s husband, who also helped out on this trek supporting Jill and I gather his discussions on the "Rock of the Day" collected along the trail was very popular (Tom is a geologist!). Thanks also to Simon one of the members of the group who being a doctor helped out several times with crew and the group, this shows really good teamwork where members with various skills are happy to pitch in and help out when required.

As ever our Nepalese crew worked hard throughout the trek and did a great job of course without porters, Sherpa guides, cooks and helpers and Sirdar this trip would not be possible for the group. This is one of the advantages of having organised Dhaulagiri Circuit a number of times over last five years as we have built up a regular and reliable crew with good knowledge of the trail, expected conditions and the best campsites along the way

I have copied below some testimonials received so far from this group:

“I had a fantastic time I have so many brilliant memories and photos of the Dhaulagiri Circuit. The trek was challenging but the support of your team was fantastic, and Jill was a brilliant leader. She was thoughtful, caring and supportive. I had confidence in Jill, and she was a good teacher. I feel I have learnt so much this trek. The Nepal crew were great. Jire was an excellent sirdar, and Sonam was a very hard worker, and deserves special mention. Saila and his team deserve a medal for the quality and variety of food they turned out of that cook tent, I've never tasted such good pizza! I have already been looking at The Mountain Company website and dreaming of my next trek...” Jenny Fifield (UK)

“Dhaulagiri Circuit trek in April was awesome, had a fantastic time! The porters were amazing and the food the cooks prepared was great especially under such challenging conditions for the crew. Jill's leadership was great as well. She had great tips and was very thoughtful regarding people's health and safety.  Thank you for such a great opportunity” Jim Carmichael (USA)

The Mountain Company is organising our next Dhaulagiri Circuit trek in October 2012, this trek will be led by Paul Burditt for more information on his background and experience. This departure is now confirmed so please get in touch with us soon if you would like to join this group.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Two new treks for The Mountain Company: Kopra Ridge and Rara Lake in Nepal

We have recently added two new treks to The Mountain Company’s portfolio in Nepal. Both of these treks have been selected by us as travel through quieter areas of Nepal with fewer other trekkers around compared to some of the busier trails in Everest and Annapurna regions.

Photo: Mount Dhaulagiri from Bayeli lodge

Our first new trek is Kopra Ridge, I walked this trail in December 2011 and I think this is one of the best short treks in Nepal. This trek contains all of the elements of a classic Nepal trekking experience including villages, wildlife, panoramic mountain views and range of landscape from forest to high alpine. Click here to read Trip Report on our blog from Kopra ridge trek in December 2011.

The mountain views from Kopra Ridge are superb and include Mount Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Fang and Nilgiri and also from Ghandruk one can see Mount Machhapuchhre (also known as Fishtail) and Mount Hiunchuli. For four nights of Kopra Ridge itinerary you stay in community lodges set up local villagers. The concept behind the community lodges at Bayeli Kharka, Upper Chistibung, Kopra and Swanta is that ownership of these lodges belongs to a village rather than individuals with profits contributing to community projects such as funding local schools.

Photo: Rara Lake in west Nepal

Our second new trek is Rara Lake and Kingdom of Khasa in a remote region of western Nepal. Alan Ward will lead this group in May 2013, click here for more information on his background and experience.

You start the trip by flying into the mountain airstrip at Simikot and trek to the stunning Rara Lake and then walk out to Jumla to fly out of another mountain airstrip back to Nepalganj. 

The Great Himalayan Trail (GHT) Upper and Lower routes pass along the shores of Rara Lake, Nepal’s largest body of water. It’s a beautiful, calm place surrounded by rugged hills forested with ancient blue pine, spruce and cedar, with the snowy peaks reflected in the still waters. This area is really off the beaten track with only 170 foreigners visiting Rara Lake in 2010.

If you are interested in joining one of these treks then please download the detailed Trip Dossiers from our website with day by itinerary and other practical information such as kit list in the Appendix. Please get in touch with us if you have any questions or require further information.

Roland Hunter
www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trek: Top 10 Wilderness treks by Trek & Mountain magazine

I just read an article in magazine Trek & Mountain's April edition recommending The Mountain Company's Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trek as one of their 10 Best Wilderness treks. Thanks Trek & Mountain and what a great magazine!

Extract from Trek & Mountain April edition:

1. Upper Dolpo, Nepal

One of Nepal's most remote and least inhabited regions.

Go with: The Mountain Company

When to go: Apr-May

How long: 29 days

Level: Strenuous

More info: www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Dolpo is the most remote and least inhabited region of Nepal, and the area has only been accessible to trekkers in the last 20 years. Upper Dolpo has been referred to as the last enclave of pure Tibetan culture, with the landscape, culture and Buddhist religion of the region more like Tibet in pre-Chinese times than the rest of Nepal. Situated between the Tibetan plateau and the Dhaulagiri Himalayan range, this region has a vast and rugged landscape inhabited by a hardy, enterprising folk who live in some of the highest villages of the world. The region is rich in wildlife and you might spot herds of blue sheep, musk deer, Himalayan fox, eagles, lammergeier and of course, the elusive snow leopard.

The Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trek, as run by The Mountain Company, forms part of the Great Himalayan Trail (GHT) and takes a route through a remote area very close to the Tibet border before walking out on the challenging trail to Jomsom in Mustang region. Highlights of the trek include crossing a number of high passes and enjoying the stunningly blue waters of Phoksumdo Lake, with the surrounding snow peaks of Kanjirowa Himalayan range all around.

Our Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trek led by Gary Pfisterer starting on April 29th 2012 is now guaranteed to run and there is currently availability, please get in touch with us soon if you would like to join this group.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Hindu festival of Holi celebrated in Nepal and India

Photo: enjoying Holi festival on Annapurna Circuit trek

The annual Hindu festival of Holi will be celebrate in Nepal and Northern India on March 8^th 2012. Holi is also known as festival of colours and is celebrated by people throwing coloured powder and coloured water at each other. Be careful to wear old clothes tomorrow especially if you are walking around Thamel in Kathmandu as well aimed water bombs are likely fall from the roof tops!

Hindus celebrate Holi as the end of winter and to welcome the new colours arriving at the start of Spring season. Holi is a Hindu festival linked to their religion and mythology however is celebrated throughout Nepal as a national festival with many people entering festivities regardless of their religion.

Happy Holi!

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

The Mountain Company's Western led treks in 2012

Photo: view from Kesha La on Lunana Snowman trek in Bhutan

So far in 2012 we have had a busy few months organising and marketing our western led treks, for your information I have listed below our trips that are now guaranteed and currently have availability:

April: Dhaulagiri Circuit in Nepal (leader: Jill Lawson)

April/ May: Upper Dolpo to Jomsom in Nepal (leader: Gary Pfisterer)

August: K2 & Gondogoro La in Pakistan ((leader: Chris Horobin)

September/ October: Lunana Snowman in Bhutan (leader: Almas Khan)

October: Dhaulagiri Circuit in Nepal (leader: Paul Burditt)
November: Mera Peak Expedition in Nepal (leader: Roland Hunter)

November/ December: Everest Base Camp in Nepal (leader: Georgina Hobbs)

November/ December: Everest Base camp with Love Hope Strength Foundation (leaders: Adrian Summers and Andrew Peacock)

We have received significant interest in the following treks and require a few more people in order to confirm these departures:

August: Nubra and Shyok Valley in Ladakh, India (leader: Alan Ward)

October: Lemosho Route on Kilimanjaro (Alan Ward)

November: Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal (Alan Ward)

Please get in touch soon if you would like to join any of these trips, or give us a call if you would like to discuss them in more detail.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

The Mountain Company joins GHT Alliance

I am glad to announce that The Mountain Company has recently joined the Great Himalaya Trail (GHT) Alliance as an accredited trek operator. GHT Alliance is a group of organisations and individuals who voluntarily adopt their Codes of Conduct, one Code has been developed for visitors and another for operators organising treks in the Himalaya. For more information on Codes of Conduct please take a look at Great Himalaya Trail website.

GHT is a trekking route that crosses Himalaya from Burma to Pakistan taking the highest feasible route along the spine of this mountain range, the trail involves very challenging trekking as well as several mountaineering sections over technical passes (eg Sherpani Col near Makalu in Nepal).

GHT Alliance has been set up by several people who have spent a lot of time exploring the Himalaya and believe it is important to give something back. The organisers of GHT Alliance work on a voluntary basis and over heads for GHT Alliance at a very low level.

The main objective of GHT Alliance is to promote local, sustainable and responsible tourism to remote areas of Himalaya that in the past may not have benefitted from trekkers. GHT Alliance is a transnational project covering Bhutan, India, Nepal and Pakistan and the hope is that this project will enhance sharing of skills and experience between the existing trekking industry in these countries.

GHT Alliance supports two GHT-related development goals: first, to promote vocational training programs, especially for porters and kitchen crew and second to initiate livelihood programs for villages along the trekking routes. GHT Alliance do not plan projects, rather registered NGOs apply for funding through GHT Alliance partners and then match them up.

Now that The Mountain Company is an accredited GHT Alliance trek operator we have agreed to adhere to Operator Code of Practice and also to encourage our clients who have signed up for one of our GHT labelled trek to donate £80 (US$120) to GHT Alliance.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Trip report for Open Charity Challenge to Everest Base Camp (Nepal) led by Alan Ward in November/ December 2011

Photo: TMC group at Everest Base Camp in December 2011

On November 29^th our Open Charity Challenge group trekking to Everest Base Camp arrived to Kathmandu. Alan Ward was the western leader for this team of fifteen which also included four visually impaired (“VI”) people with one person having no sight.

One of the VIs, David, had already joined two of our treks both led by Alan, in 2007 he trekked to Upper Mustang in Nepal and in 2010 attempted to climb Stok Kangri in Ladakh. David got in touch with us at end of last year with the idea of planning a trek to Everest Base Camp to coincide with his 60^th birthday. Of course we were delighted to be able to help him and he also recruited several friends from his walking group Milton Mountaineers and Vitalise Holidays.

In September Alan organised a training weekend for this group in Brecons, this worked well so that the team could get to know each other. From feedback received I gather everyone found Alan’s various presentations and discussions over the course of the weekend very helpful and aided their preparations for the trek to Everest Base Camp.

Based on our experience with organising David’s previous treks in the Himalayas we realised that each VI would require a sighted helper from UK as well as one Sherpa guide to escort them at all times along the trail. After discussing this set-up on their return I understand worked well with Sherpa guides taking the lead during the day due to their knowledge of the route while also being supported by UK helpers. Then on arrival to lodge in the afternoon UK helper would take over showing VIs around the lodge such as dining room, bedroom and washing facilities.

I enjoyed meeting this group on their return to Kathmandu and hearing about how the trek went for them. They experienced good weather with sun every day and also everyone acclimatised well to the altitude (as a result of our tried and tested 14 day trek itinerary!). The feedback I received was they enjoyed staying at the lodges we had carefully selected for them and I gather Zamling in Namche and Mother Earth were their favourites.

Great news that all VIs and helpers plus the rest of the group (apart from one) made it all the way to Everest Base Camp and/ or Kalapatar. This is a fantastic achievement for everyone in the group and is truly inspirational. When they got back in Kathmandu there was a lot of interest by Nepalese media and VIs had interviews with Kantipur TV,several radio stations and also articles/ photos in several newspapers including Republica (see photo below).

Photo: VIs in Kathmandu published in Republica

This is a photo of David, Jimmy, Leigh and Terry in Kathmandu a few days ago after successfully completing Everest Base Camp trek in Nepal, it is a really special achievement for them as they are all visually impaired with one person having no sight. I would like thank Alan Ward their western leader and UK helpers (Diana, Rob, Meg and Emma) as well as the rest of the group who supported VIs throughout their trek. A huge thanks to our Nepalese sirdar, Buddhi Rai, plus the Sherpas (Tenzing, Purna, Mangal, Prem, Kulungman and Uttar) as well as the porters who did a superb job making it possible for everyone to achieve their objective of walking to Everest Base Camp.

Thanks also to Rohan Designs Limited who kindly donated over 20kg of clothing for KEEP’s porters lending bank, Alan brought this gear out with him and shortly after arriving to Nepal visited their office in Kathmandu to hand these items over to them.

The Mountain Company is organising two Open Charity Challenge treks in Nepal for 2012, we have a western led Everest Base Camp group in November and Alan is coming back again to lead our Annapurna Base Camp trek also in November. Please get in touch with us soon if you would like to join one of these groups.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk