Book review for Everest The Old Way- a bright remembering by David Peckett, John Driskell and Les Simms with Foreword by Sir Chris Bonnington

Photo: Everest The Old Way

This is a wonderful book describing a trek to Everest Base Camp undertaken by a group of five teachers in 1967 followed by a revisit to the area 43 years later in 2010. In 1967 these friends decided to undertake this trip together after meeting on their teacher training course in Sheffield where they all made a pact to save £10 a month (at the time over a quarter of their income) for two years in order to finance the trip.

Their journey was inspired by the words of climbing legend Geoffrey Winthrop Young “Live life to the full, blend dream with the deed” and also by the ethos of Sixties which was full of optimism and opportunities. Their trek was the highlight of a two year trip driving a Landrover from Barnsley through Europe, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan, and India to Nepal and back again to UK after visiting Everest Base Camp.

Their story is a fascinating insight into how the Everest region has changed since trekking became popular in this part of the Himalaya. In 1967 there were no commercial trek lodges in Nepal so the group stayed with local families often only paying a small charge covering firewood used for cooking their meals. They started the trek on February 19th from Dolaghat rather than flying into Lukla airport (like most people these days) and it took them sixteen days to reach Kalapatar and Gorakshep (original Base Camp for Everest expeditions). Then twenty seven days later on March 16th they returned back to Kathmandu and they managed to only spend £33 between them for the whole trek!

In 1967 there was only one trekking company in Nepal called Mountain Travel set up by Jimmy Roberts who was known as "the father of trekking in Nepal". However this group decided to organise this trek themselves on a shoestring budget by employing one Sherpa guide in Kathmandu called LP and also one porter called Kaman. This group were pioneers of independent trekking in Himalaya and since this time a large adventure travel industry has developed in Nepal with hundreds of tour operators, an extensive network of lodges and an upgraded runway at Lukla.

This book is made up of diaries written by David, John and Less as well as photos from 1967 and 2010 plus maps and some letters written home. I am sure this book will be of huge interest to people who have recently trekked to Everest Base Camp who will be able to compare their experience to David, John and Les’s story from an earlier trek in Khumbu before the commercialisation effects of modern adventure tourism.

Roland Hunter
www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Kanchenjunga Base Camp to Makalu Base Camp: Section 1 of The Great Himalaya Trail

Photo: north side of Mount Kanchenjunga

In October 2013 The Mountain Company is organising Kanchenjunga Base Camp to Makalu Base Camp trek along Section 1 of The Great Himalaya Trail ("GHT"). This is an epic 35 day trek from Kanchenjunga Base Camp passing through a remote region on border with Tibet to Makalu Base Camp. Mount Kanchenjunga at an altitude of 8,586m is the third highest mountain in the world and Mount Makalu at 8,481m is the fifth highest mountain.

If this trek is too long take a look at the shorter version at 23 days where you visit Kanchenjunga Base Camp and then walk out to Tumlingtar airstrip. Both of these treks follow the first section of The Great Himalaya Trail ("GHT") where very few other trekking groups have completed this adventurous mountain journey.

After visiting Kanchenjunga Base Camp (North) we will cross Nango La pass at 4,820m into the remote Yangma valley and to the small hamlet of Olangchunngola. From here we cross Lumba Sumba at 5,160m and walk out to Chyantang. At Chyantang village our group will split with the people booked onto shorter Kanchenjunga Base Camp to Tumlingtar trek walking south to this airstrip whereas the Kanchenjunga Base Camp to Makalu Base Camp walkers will continue traversing westwards towards Makalu. After visiting Makalu Base Camp we will descend the Barun Valley then cross Shipton la at 4,125m followed by the walk out to Tumlingtar airstrip for flight back to Kathmandu.

Roland Hunter, the owner and founder of the Mountain Company, will lead our Kanchenjunga Base Camp to Makalu Base Camp trek along with a team of experienced Sherpa guides. Please get in touch with us soon if you would like to join this trek.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Trip report for Dhaulagiri Circuit (Nepal) led by Jill Lawson in April 2012

Our Dhaulagiri Circuit in April/May 2012 was the sixth time The Mountain Company has organised this trek.  Our western leader for our Spring 2012 trek was Jill Lawson for more information on her background and experience. Jill was working with our Nepalese sirdar Jire Rai who has done this trek fives times with our groups and also Sherpa guides Sonam and Lanka. The cook was Saila Rai who always does a fantastic job and certainly his food was appreciated and enjoyed by this group- see their testimonials at bottom of this Trip Report.

It was great to see that over half of this group were repeat trekkers with us with some having already walked to Everest Base Camp and for Paul it was his fourth trek having previously done K2 Base Camp (Pakistan) in July 2007, Manaslu Circuit in April 2008 and Stok Kangri (August 2010). We really appreciate it when people show their support and come back for more than trip with The Mountain Company, it shows we are doing something right!

Chonbarden Gorge

This group arrived to Kathmandu on April 22^nd, and met up with Jill at Hotel Tibet in the afternoon for a detailed briefing on the trek and kit check. We carefully selected the date of the trek for Spring season as by end of April and into May the temperatures tend to be warmer and usually there is less snow on French and Dhampus passes so should increase the chances of successfully crossing over to Jomsom in the Kali Gandaki valley. However this Spring the conditions experienced by this group were rather different to normal with far more precipitation in the afternoons and evenings plus a lower snowline down to Italian Base camp. 

On Day 10 of the itinerary when the group was meant to walk up Chonbarden gorge to Glacier Camp there was quite a lot of overnight snow so wisely Jill and Jire made a good call to hold for a day to let the snow melt in order to minimise the risk of rockfall in the gorge. This worked well and everyone safely made it to Glacier camp and for the rest of the trek weather was more stable with sunny weather. In fact this often happens on Dhaulagiri Circuit as main Base Camp and Hidden Valley are protected to some degree by rain shadow effect of Dhaulagiri. 

The most challenging day of Dhaulagiri Circuit trek is crossing Dhampus Pass over to Yak Kharka camp (or Alu Bari camp lower down). The group experienced deep snow on the traverse from summit of Dhampus pass to the descent down to camp however there was a trail blazed by the porters for everyone to follow. On arriving to Jomsom at the end of the trek I gather there was a good party where the group and crew enjoyed drinking some of the local apple brandy together. Later on in the evening the group generously handed out tips to the Nepalese crew as a thank you for all of their hard work during the trek.

Descending French Pass into Hidden Valley

Traverse after Dhampus Pass

I would like to thank Jill very much for all of her help leading this trek, the feedback from the group on her leadership and organisation skills has been excellent- please some of their testimonials copied below. I would also like to thank Tom, Jill’s husband, who also helped out on this trek supporting Jill and I gather his discussions on the "Rock of the Day" collected along the trail was very popular (Tom is a geologist!). Thanks also to Simon one of the members of the group who being a doctor helped out several times with crew and the group, this shows really good teamwork where members with various skills are happy to pitch in and help out when required.

As ever our Nepalese crew worked hard throughout the trek and did a great job of course without porters, Sherpa guides, cooks and helpers and Sirdar this trip would not be possible for the group. This is one of the advantages of having organised Dhaulagiri Circuit a number of times over last five years as we have built up a regular and reliable crew with good knowledge of the trail, expected conditions and the best campsites along the way

I have copied below some testimonials received so far from this group:

“I had a fantastic time I have so many brilliant memories and photos of the Dhaulagiri Circuit. The trek was challenging but the support of your team was fantastic, and Jill was a brilliant leader. She was thoughtful, caring and supportive. I had confidence in Jill, and she was a good teacher. I feel I have learnt so much this trek. The Nepal crew were great. Jire was an excellent sirdar, and Sonam was a very hard worker, and deserves special mention. Saila and his team deserve a medal for the quality and variety of food they turned out of that cook tent, I've never tasted such good pizza! I have already been looking at The Mountain Company website and dreaming of my next trek...” Jenny Fifield (UK)

“Dhaulagiri Circuit trek in April was awesome, had a fantastic time! The porters were amazing and the food the cooks prepared was great especially under such challenging conditions for the crew. Jill's leadership was great as well. She had great tips and was very thoughtful regarding people's health and safety.  Thank you for such a great opportunity” Jim Carmichael (USA)

The Mountain Company is organising our next Dhaulagiri Circuit trek in October 2012, this trek will be led by Paul Burditt for more information on his background and experience. This departure is now confirmed so please get in touch with us soon if you would like to join this group.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Two new treks for The Mountain Company: Kopra Ridge and Rara Lake in Nepal

We have recently added two new treks to The Mountain Company’s portfolio in Nepal. Both of these treks have been selected by us as travel through quieter areas of Nepal with fewer other trekkers around compared to some of the busier trails in Everest and Annapurna regions.

Photo: Mount Dhaulagiri from Bayeli lodge

Our first new trek is Kopra Ridge, I walked this trail in December 2011 and I think this is one of the best short treks in Nepal. This trek contains all of the elements of a classic Nepal trekking experience including villages, wildlife, panoramic mountain views and range of landscape from forest to high alpine. Click here to read Trip Report on our blog from Kopra ridge trek in December 2011.

The mountain views from Kopra Ridge are superb and include Mount Dhaulagiri, Annapurna South, Fang and Nilgiri and also from Ghandruk one can see Mount Machhapuchhre (also known as Fishtail) and Mount Hiunchuli. For four nights of Kopra Ridge itinerary you stay in community lodges set up local villagers. The concept behind the community lodges at Bayeli Kharka, Upper Chistibung, Kopra and Swanta is that ownership of these lodges belongs to a village rather than individuals with profits contributing to community projects such as funding local schools.

Photo: Rara Lake in west Nepal

Our second new trek is Rara Lake and Kingdom of Khasa in a remote region of western Nepal. Alan Ward will lead this group in May 2013, click here for more information on his background and experience.

You start the trip by flying into the mountain airstrip at Simikot and trek to the stunning Rara Lake and then walk out to Jumla to fly out of another mountain airstrip back to Nepalganj. 

The Great Himalayan Trail (GHT) Upper and Lower routes pass along the shores of Rara Lake, Nepal’s largest body of water. It’s a beautiful, calm place surrounded by rugged hills forested with ancient blue pine, spruce and cedar, with the snowy peaks reflected in the still waters. This area is really off the beaten track with only 170 foreigners visiting Rara Lake in 2010.

If you are interested in joining one of these treks then please download the detailed Trip Dossiers from our website with day by itinerary and other practical information such as kit list in the Appendix. Please get in touch with us if you have any questions or require further information.

Roland Hunter
www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trek: Top 10 Wilderness treks by Trek & Mountain magazine

I just read an article in magazine Trek & Mountain's April edition recommending The Mountain Company's Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trek as one of their 10 Best Wilderness treks. Thanks Trek & Mountain and what a great magazine!

Extract from Trek & Mountain April edition:

1. Upper Dolpo, Nepal

One of Nepal's most remote and least inhabited regions.

Go with: The Mountain Company

When to go: Apr-May

How long: 29 days

Level: Strenuous

More info: www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Dolpo is the most remote and least inhabited region of Nepal, and the area has only been accessible to trekkers in the last 20 years. Upper Dolpo has been referred to as the last enclave of pure Tibetan culture, with the landscape, culture and Buddhist religion of the region more like Tibet in pre-Chinese times than the rest of Nepal. Situated between the Tibetan plateau and the Dhaulagiri Himalayan range, this region has a vast and rugged landscape inhabited by a hardy, enterprising folk who live in some of the highest villages of the world. The region is rich in wildlife and you might spot herds of blue sheep, musk deer, Himalayan fox, eagles, lammergeier and of course, the elusive snow leopard.

The Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trek, as run by The Mountain Company, forms part of the Great Himalayan Trail (GHT) and takes a route through a remote area very close to the Tibet border before walking out on the challenging trail to Jomsom in Mustang region. Highlights of the trek include crossing a number of high passes and enjoying the stunningly blue waters of Phoksumdo Lake, with the surrounding snow peaks of Kanjirowa Himalayan range all around.

Our Upper Dolpo to Jomsom trek led by Gary Pfisterer starting on April 29th 2012 is now guaranteed to run and there is currently availability, please get in touch with us soon if you would like to join this group.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

Hindu festival of Holi celebrated in Nepal and India

Photo: enjoying Holi festival on Annapurna Circuit trek

The annual Hindu festival of Holi will be celebrate in Nepal and Northern India on March 8^th 2012. Holi is also known as festival of colours and is celebrated by people throwing coloured powder and coloured water at each other. Be careful to wear old clothes tomorrow especially if you are walking around Thamel in Kathmandu as well aimed water bombs are likely fall from the roof tops!

Hindus celebrate Holi as the end of winter and to welcome the new colours arriving at the start of Spring season. Holi is a Hindu festival linked to their religion and mythology however is celebrated throughout Nepal as a national festival with many people entering festivities regardless of their religion.

Happy Holi!

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk

The Mountain Company's Western led treks in 2012

Photo: view from Kesha La on Lunana Snowman trek in Bhutan

So far in 2012 we have had a busy few months organising and marketing our western led treks, for your information I have listed below our trips that are now guaranteed and currently have availability:

April: Dhaulagiri Circuit in Nepal (leader: Jill Lawson)

April/ May: Upper Dolpo to Jomsom in Nepal (leader: Gary Pfisterer)

August: K2 & Gondogoro La in Pakistan ((leader: Chris Horobin)

September/ October: Lunana Snowman in Bhutan (leader: Almas Khan)

October: Dhaulagiri Circuit in Nepal (leader: Paul Burditt)
November: Mera Peak Expedition in Nepal (leader: Roland Hunter)

November/ December: Everest Base Camp in Nepal (leader: Georgina Hobbs)

November/ December: Everest Base camp with Love Hope Strength Foundation (leaders: Adrian Summers and Andrew Peacock)

We have received significant interest in the following treks and require a few more people in order to confirm these departures:

August: Nubra and Shyok Valley in Ladakh, India (leader: Alan Ward)

October: Lemosho Route on Kilimanjaro (Alan Ward)

November: Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal (Alan Ward)

Please get in touch soon if you would like to join any of these trips, or give us a call if you would like to discuss them in more detail.

Roland Hunter

www.themountaincompany.co.uk