Roland Hunter and Mick Parker summitted Makalu today. They used neither Sherpa support or bottled o2.
The weather conditions were good with little wind and good visibility. Roland and Mick are safely back in Camp 3 and should reach Base Camp by tomorrow.
A more detailed description of this day will follow shortly. Stay tuned!
Thursday, 21 May 2009
Tuesday, 12 May 2009
Beaten back by strong winds on Makalu
We are all safely back in base camp after a week in the mountain.
On May 5th, we left for our summit attempt and ended up staying at Camp 1 for 3 nights as we were unable to move up to Camp 2 (7,300m) at Makalu La due to strong winds. On May 8th, we finally succeeded in climbing Makalu La and establishing our Camp 2. In spite of weather forecasts indicating a possible window between the 8th and the 10th, the winds were still very strong. On the 9th we decided not to proced to Camp 3 due to poor weather conditions.
Spanish Carlos and 2 sherpas decided to move to Camp 3 but they turned back early the next morning without making a summit attempt. After spending the 2nd night at Makalu La we received another weather forecast for even stronger winds and snow within days so we decided to return to Base Camp.
So what's next? Stay and attempt another summit climb? Maybe or maybe not. Paul has to return to his work in Australia so he will be leaving soon to trek back to Kathmandu. As for Mick and Roland, their decision depends on when the next forecasted weather window might be. As we are climbing without bottled oxygen, we need lower wind speeds to safely climb the mountain. We are particularly aware of potential injuries to toes and fingers due to the cold. We received a weather forecast today which suggests a window around the 20th of May which is too late for Roland but Mick might possibly stay on. We will make a definitive decision tomorrow based on the next forecast.
If the poor weather persists on Makalu until the 20th, Roland migh join a Spanish team on an alternate trek out to Lukla via Sherpani and the west passes rather than using the route we came in from Tumlingtar.
More news soon!
On May 5th, we left for our summit attempt and ended up staying at Camp 1 for 3 nights as we were unable to move up to Camp 2 (7,300m) at Makalu La due to strong winds. On May 8th, we finally succeeded in climbing Makalu La and establishing our Camp 2. In spite of weather forecasts indicating a possible window between the 8th and the 10th, the winds were still very strong. On the 9th we decided not to proced to Camp 3 due to poor weather conditions.
Spanish Carlos and 2 sherpas decided to move to Camp 3 but they turned back early the next morning without making a summit attempt. After spending the 2nd night at Makalu La we received another weather forecast for even stronger winds and snow within days so we decided to return to Base Camp.
So what's next? Stay and attempt another summit climb? Maybe or maybe not. Paul has to return to his work in Australia so he will be leaving soon to trek back to Kathmandu. As for Mick and Roland, their decision depends on when the next forecasted weather window might be. As we are climbing without bottled oxygen, we need lower wind speeds to safely climb the mountain. We are particularly aware of potential injuries to toes and fingers due to the cold. We received a weather forecast today which suggests a window around the 20th of May which is too late for Roland but Mick might possibly stay on. We will make a definitive decision tomorrow based on the next forecast.
If the poor weather persists on Makalu until the 20th, Roland migh join a Spanish team on an alternate trek out to Lukla via Sherpani and the west passes rather than using the route we came in from Tumlingtar.
More news soon!
Wednesday, 29 April 2009
Makalu La at 7,300m Reached Yesterday
Following my last update on the blog, we went back to Camp 1 with the objective to carry tents & fixed rope up to Camp 2 at Makalu La at 7,300m. Unfortunately the wind was too strong while we waited 3 days for a lull. However, this was great acclimatisation to this high altitude.
After a few days back at Base Camp, we then went back to Camp 1 and we finally succeeded yesterday in carrying this gear to Camp 2 at Makalu La. This section is the steepest part of the route on Makalu with views to Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Mera Peak.
The forecast for tomorrow is snow so we will wait in Base Camp until conditions improve. Then we will head up to sleep at Makalu Base Camp. Once we have done this we should be ready for a summit attempt given good weather conditions.
Watch this space!
After a few days back at Base Camp, we then went back to Camp 1 and we finally succeeded yesterday in carrying this gear to Camp 2 at Makalu La. This section is the steepest part of the route on Makalu with views to Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Mera Peak.
The forecast for tomorrow is snow so we will wait in Base Camp until conditions improve. Then we will head up to sleep at Makalu Base Camp. Once we have done this we should be ready for a summit attempt given good weather conditions.
Watch this space!
Monday, 20 April 2009
First night at Camp 1 @ 6,500m
After arriving to the Basecamp on April 7th we have been carrying loads to Camp 1. The route from base camp to camp 1 is different to previous years; instead of joining the glacier at 5,900m one follows a moraine ridge to gain access to the upper glacier. Camp 1 is located on a stable serac at 6,500m.
Last night we slept here and this afternoon returned to base camp for a rest day tomorrow. Dendi Sherpa, who summited Makalu with the Brisith Army team in '08 thinks that the crevasses are more open this year due to a dry winter with low amounts of snowfall. It has also been clear that since our arrival to basecamp the crevasses have increased in size due to the warmer spring weather.
The view from camp 1 last night was spectacular, in particular I could clearly see Sherpani Col & West Barun glacier. It is possible to trek from Makalu basecamp and to Everest basecamp via Sgerpani, West Col & Amphulapsa. This is known as one if the most challenging treks in the Himalayas. Please get in touch if interested.
Last night we slept here and this afternoon returned to base camp for a rest day tomorrow. Dendi Sherpa, who summited Makalu with the Brisith Army team in '08 thinks that the crevasses are more open this year due to a dry winter with low amounts of snowfall. It has also been clear that since our arrival to basecamp the crevasses have increased in size due to the warmer spring weather.
The view from camp 1 last night was spectacular, in particular I could clearly see Sherpani Col & West Barun glacier. It is possible to trek from Makalu basecamp and to Everest basecamp via Sgerpani, West Col & Amphulapsa. This is known as one if the most challenging treks in the Himalayas. Please get in touch if interested.
Tuesday, 7 April 2009
Progress in Kathmandu for Makalu Expedition
We saw Makalu for the first time today as we approached base camp at 4,900m The trek from the airstrip at Tumlingtar has been enjoyable. It starts at 400m passing through Rai, Tamang and Gurung villages then at higher altitudes the Sherpa villages such as Tashigaon.
From there we crossed the Shipton Pass into the Barun valley. The weather up to this pass was wet & cloudy so unfortunately no views. While walking to the base camp we have had typical spring conditions above 3,000m with clear and sunny mornings and cloud in the afternoons; we have had some light snow as well.
Our plan is to spend 2 nights at base camp for acclimatisation then to move up to the advanced base camp at 5,700m The rest of the expedition will be based from there.
The team are all well and enjoying the trip. We have had superb views over the last few days of peak 6 & 7, Chamlang, Baruntse and of the East & West Makalu ridges. More updates soon.
From there we crossed the Shipton Pass into the Barun valley. The weather up to this pass was wet & cloudy so unfortunately no views. While walking to the base camp we have had typical spring conditions above 3,000m with clear and sunny mornings and cloud in the afternoons; we have had some light snow as well.
Our plan is to spend 2 nights at base camp for acclimatisation then to move up to the advanced base camp at 5,700m The rest of the expedition will be based from there.
The team are all well and enjoying the trip. We have had superb views over the last few days of peak 6 & 7, Chamlang, Baruntse and of the East & West Makalu ridges. More updates soon.
Thursday, 26 March 2009
Preparations in Kathmandu for Makalu Expedition
Photo: Kathmandu
Our team has now arrived to Kathmandu, I got in on 20th along with Mick (Parker) and then Paul (Hudson) arrived yesterday. The last few days we have been busy buying gear to help fix the route on the mountain (rope, ice screws, pitons and snow stakes etc) as well as food for the hill and a few extra luxury food items for Base Camp.
We plan to fly to Tumlingtar on 28th and then start the ten day trek into Makalu Base Camp from there. Mick knows the route well as he attempted Makalu back in 2004 whereas for Paul and me it is the first time. I am looking forward to the trek, it should be enjoyable as travels through beautiful country where there are very few trekkers and commercialisation as seen in other trekking areas like Annapurna and Everest.
There are a number of other teams coming to Makalu this year on the normal route (North West ridge via Makalu La), so far we have heard of a large team from Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Darjeeling, a Korean team, and two Spanish climbers one being Jose Mª López.
Hopefully during the course of our expedition I will send back dispatches to this Blog with our progress on the mountain, however it is unlikely you will see any new updates until we reach Base Camp in a couple of weeks time.
There are lots of climbers in Kathmandu at the moment and it is good to catch up with friends from previous expeditions, the usual suspects are in Sam’s Pub most nights! In fact I am meeting some friends there shortly so better go…
We plan to fly to Tumlingtar on 28th and then start the ten day trek into Makalu Base Camp from there. Mick knows the route well as he attempted Makalu back in 2004 whereas for Paul and me it is the first time. I am looking forward to the trek, it should be enjoyable as travels through beautiful country where there are very few trekkers and commercialisation as seen in other trekking areas like Annapurna and Everest.
There are a number of other teams coming to Makalu this year on the normal route (North West ridge via Makalu La), so far we have heard of a large team from Himalayan Mountaineering Institute Darjeeling, a Korean team, and two Spanish climbers one being Jose Mª López.
Hopefully during the course of our expedition I will send back dispatches to this Blog with our progress on the mountain, however it is unlikely you will see any new updates until we reach Base Camp in a couple of weeks time.
There are lots of climbers in Kathmandu at the moment and it is good to catch up with friends from previous expeditions, the usual suspects are in Sam’s Pub most nights! In fact I am meeting some friends there shortly so better go…
Wednesday, 4 March 2009
Makalu Expedition Spring '09
Photo: Makalu seen from Mera Peak
In a few weeks I fly to Nepal to join a private expedition to climb Mt Makalu. At 8,462m Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world. I have admired this beautifully shaped peak while leading expeditions to Mera Peak over the last few years. It is perfect pyramid with four ridges making this mountain look spectacular from any direction.
I will be climbing with Mick Parker who I know well from previous expeditions to Kanchenjunga (2003) and Broad Peak (2005). Our objective is the North West ridge via the Makalu La, it looks an interesting route with technical climbing at altitude. We plan to climb without Sherpa support or supplemental oxygen.
We fly to Tumlingtar on March 28th for the 10 day trek in to Base Camp, I am looking forward to the walk as I have never been to this region before. The trail passes through the large Sherpa village of Tashigaon and then over the Shipton La towards Base Camp.
For more information on the mountain take a look at Wikipedia Makalu page. If you are interested in the full list of all Spring expedtitions in Nepal take a look at the MountEverest.net
I plan to send messages back during the course of the expedition via my satellite phone and these will be posted to this Blog.
Roland Hunter
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