Latest news from the Himalaya and Karakoram

Saturday 30 May 2009

Makalu Expedition Photos 4: Makalu summit!!

Photo: Camp 3 on edge of icefall


Photo: climbing through icefall

Photo: snowslope after icefall

Photo (Mick Parker): Roland on snowslope

Photo: Mick approaching French couloir

Photo: French couloir

Photo: Mick above French couloir

Photo: Everest and Lhotse

Photo: corniced summit ridge

Photo: Mick climbing false summit

Photo (Mick Parker): Roland climbing false summit

Photo: Mick on final summit ridge

Photo: Roland on the summit!

Photo: Mick on the summit!

Photo: descending summit ridge

Makalu Expedition Photos 3: Climbing to Camp 2 on Makalu La at 7,300m

Photo: Makalu La


Photo: Mick climbing to Makalu La

Photo: snowfield half way up to Makalu La

Photo: ice couloir above snowfield

Photo: mixed ground below Makalu La

Photo: below Makalu La

Photo: Camp 2 on Makalu La at 7,300m

Photo: view of Makalu Two

Photo: view east from Makalu La

Photo: Makalu La

Photo: view of summit from Makalu La

Makalu Expedition Photos 2: Makalu Advanced Base Camp, Puja and Camp 1

Photo: porters approaching Advanced Base Camp

Photo: Makalu West Ridge

Photo: trail to Advanced Base Camp

Photo: Advanced Base Camp

Photo: Puja ceremony

Photo: Puja ceremony

Photo: Puja ceremony

Photo: Puja ceremony

Photo: Deposit camp on edge of glacier

Photo: serac en route to Camp 1

Photo: route to Camp 1

Photo: route to Camp 1

Photo: Camp 1 with Everest & Lhotse

Photo: view of Tibet from Camp 1

Photo: view of Chamlang and Baruntse from Camp 1

Photo: Makalu La

Makalu Expedition Photos 1: Trekking to Base Camp

Photo: Mick at Tumlingtar


Photo: terraced fields at Maneybhanjang

Photo: ploughing fields

Photo: Paul and Shekhar

Photo: mani wall

Photo: farmhouse near Seduwa

Photo: suspension bridge over Arun River

Photo: Shipton La

Photo: Shipton La

Photo: lakes near Shipton La

Photo: Shipton La

Photo: Shipton La

Photo: descending Shipton La

Photo: Barun Valley

Photo: campsite at Langmale Kharka

Photo: campsite at Mera

Photo: walking near Sherson

Photo: Sherson

Photo: Hilary (lower) Base Camp

Photo: Mt Makalu

Thursday 21 May 2009

Makalu Summits!

Roland Hunter and Mick Parker summitted Makalu today. They used neither Sherpa support or bottled o2.

The weather conditions were good with little wind and good visibility. Roland and Mick are safely back in Camp 3 and should reach Base Camp by tomorrow.

A more detailed description of this day will follow shortly. Stay tuned!

Tuesday 12 May 2009

Beaten back by strong winds on Makalu

We are all safely back in base camp after a week in the mountain.

On May 5th, we left for our summit attempt and ended up staying at Camp 1 for 3 nights as we were unable to move up to Camp 2 (7,300m) at Makalu La due to strong winds. On May 8th, we finally succeeded in climbing Makalu La and establishing our Camp 2. In spite of weather forecasts indicating a possible window between the 8th and the 10th, the winds were still very strong. On the 9th we decided not to proced to Camp 3 due to poor weather conditions.

Spanish Carlos and 2 sherpas decided to move to Camp 3 but they turned back early the next morning without making a summit attempt. After spending the 2nd night at Makalu La we received another weather forecast for even stronger winds and snow within days so we decided to return to Base Camp.

So what's next? Stay and attempt another summit climb? Maybe or maybe not. Paul has to return to his work in Australia so he will be leaving soon to trek back to Kathmandu. As for Mick and Roland, their decision depends on when the next forecasted weather window might be. As we are climbing without bottled oxygen, we need lower wind speeds to safely climb the mountain. We are particularly aware of potential injuries to toes and fingers due to the cold. We received a weather forecast today which suggests a window around the 20th of May which is too late for Roland but Mick might possibly stay on. We will make a definitive decision tomorrow based on the next forecast.

If the poor weather persists on Makalu until the 20th, Roland migh join a Spanish team on an alternate trek out to Lukla via Sherpani and the west passes rather than using the route we came in from Tumlingtar.

More news soon!

The Mountain Company