Makalu Expedition Photos 2: Makalu Advanced Base Camp, Puja and Camp 1

Photo: porters approaching Advanced Base Camp

Photo: Makalu West Ridge

Photo: trail to Advanced Base Camp

Photo: Advanced Base Camp

Photo: Puja ceremony

Photo: Puja ceremony

Photo: Puja ceremony

Photo: Puja ceremony

Photo: Deposit camp on edge of glacier

Photo: serac en route to Camp 1

Photo: route to Camp 1

Photo: route to Camp 1

Photo: Camp 1 with Everest & Lhotse

Photo: view of Tibet from Camp 1

Photo: view of Chamlang and Baruntse from Camp 1

Photo: Makalu La

Makalu Expedition Photos 1: Trekking to Base Camp

Photo: Mick at Tumlingtar

Photo: terraced fields at Maneybhanjang

Photo: ploughing fields

Photo: Paul and Shekhar

Photo: mani wall

Photo: farmhouse near Seduwa

Photo: suspension bridge over Arun River

Photo: Shipton La

Photo: Shipton La

Photo: lakes near Shipton La

Photo: Shipton La

Photo: Shipton La

Photo: descending Shipton La

Photo: Barun Valley

Photo: campsite at Langmale Kharka

Photo: campsite at Mera

Photo: walking near Sherson

Photo: Sherson

Photo: Hilary (lower) Base Camp

Photo: Mt Makalu

Makalu Summits!

Roland Hunter and Mick Parker summitted Makalu today. They used neither Sherpa support or bottled o2.

The weather conditions were good with little wind and good visibility. Roland and Mick are safely back in Camp 3 and should reach Base Camp by tomorrow.

A more detailed description of this day will follow shortly. Stay tuned!

Beaten back by strong winds on Makalu

We are all safely back in base camp after a week in the mountain.

On May 5th, we left for our summit attempt and ended up staying at Camp 1 for 3 nights as we were unable to move up to Camp 2 (7,300m) at Makalu La due to strong winds. On May 8th, we finally succeeded in climbing Makalu La and establishing our Camp 2. In spite of weather forecasts indicating a possible window between the 8th and the 10th, the winds were still very strong. On the 9th we decided not to proced to Camp 3 due to poor weather conditions.

Spanish Carlos and 2 sherpas decided to move to Camp 3 but they turned back early the next morning without making a summit attempt. After spending the 2nd night at Makalu La we received another weather forecast for even stronger winds and snow within days so we decided to return to Base Camp.

So what's next? Stay and attempt another summit climb? Maybe or maybe not. Paul has to return to his work in Australia so he will be leaving soon to trek back to Kathmandu. As for Mick and Roland, their decision depends on when the next forecasted weather window might be. As we are climbing without bottled oxygen, we need lower wind speeds to safely climb the mountain. We are particularly aware of potential injuries to toes and fingers due to the cold. We received a weather forecast today which suggests a window around the 20th of May which is too late for Roland but Mick might possibly stay on. We will make a definitive decision tomorrow based on the next forecast.

If the poor weather persists on Makalu until the 20th, Roland migh join a Spanish team on an alternate trek out to Lukla via Sherpani and the west passes rather than using the route we came in from Tumlingtar.

More news soon!

Makalu La at 7,300m Reached Yesterday

Following my last update on the blog, we went back to Camp 1 with the objective to carry tents & fixed rope up to Camp 2 at Makalu La at 7,300m. Unfortunately the wind was too strong while we waited 3 days for a lull. However, this was great acclimatisation to this high altitude.

After a few days back at Base Camp, we then went back to Camp 1 and we finally succeeded yesterday in carrying this gear to Camp 2 at Makalu La. This section is the steepest part of the route on Makalu with views to Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Mera Peak.

The forecast for tomorrow is snow so we will wait in Base Camp until conditions improve. Then we will head up to sleep at Makalu Base Camp. Once we have done this we should be ready for a summit attempt given good weather conditions.

Watch this space!

First night at Camp 1 @ 6,500m

After arriving to the Basecamp on April 7th we have been carrying loads to Camp 1. The route from base camp to camp 1 is different to previous years; instead of joining the glacier at 5,900m one follows a moraine ridge to gain access to the upper glacier. Camp 1 is located on a stable serac at 6,500m.

Last night we slept here and this afternoon returned to base camp for a rest day tomorrow. Dendi Sherpa, who summited Makalu with the Brisith Army team in '08 thinks that the crevasses are more open this year due to a dry winter with low amounts of snowfall. It has also been clear that since our arrival to basecamp the crevasses have increased in size due to the warmer spring weather.

The view from camp 1 last night was spectacular, in particular I could clearly see Sherpani Col & West Barun glacier. It is possible to trek from Makalu basecamp and to Everest basecamp via Sgerpani, West Col & Amphulapsa. This is known as one if the most challenging treks in the Himalayas. Please get in touch if interested.

Progress in Kathmandu for Makalu Expedition

We saw Makalu for the first time today as we approached base camp at 4,900m The trek from the airstrip at Tumlingtar has been enjoyable. It starts at 400m passing through Rai, Tamang and Gurung villages then at higher altitudes the Sherpa villages such as Tashigaon.

From there we crossed the Shipton Pass into the Barun valley. The weather up to this pass was wet & cloudy so unfortunately no views. While walking to the base camp we have had typical spring conditions above 3,000m with clear and sunny mornings and cloud in the afternoons; we have had some light snow as well.

Our plan is to spend 2 nights at base camp for acclimatisation then to move up to the advanced base camp at 5,700m The rest of the expedition will be based from there.

The team are all well and enjoying the trip. We have had superb views over the last few days of peak 6 & 7, Chamlang, Baruntse and of the East & West Makalu ridges. More updates soon.